This assignment I understand has been a ‘once in a lifetime’ experience; both in terms of understanding nature as also self. I got the space to get closer to both. Jumping on the stones while walking up the rivers, crossing the pools in the rivers by walking delicately on the fallen tree trunks, crawling beneath cane-bamboo (dense as any vegetation i have come across) and many more such moments brought me close to nature. Sitting alone, thinking of ‘today’ and being ‘far’ from all that was ‘away’ from me then brought me closer to my mind and spirit.
Mid way into the survey when I realized that this was a “one of those crazy experiences that would stay with me for long” I pondered on what was the nearest I have come to such a fulfilling experience in life. The only word that came (and it did pretty fast) was Moghias ~ those days when I made attempts to comprehend the practices and perceptions of the Moghias in Sheopur (Madhya Pradesh), few years ago. Drawing parallels (as is my habit) I realized that both these were primarily knowledge accumulation tasks on subjects whose familiarity was restricted beyond their realms; I had agreed to be a part of both exercises without being aware to the magnitude of the tasks they involved ~ as I look back I wonder if it was the lack of clarity that made me give consent to these exercises; I had not made a detailed plan (read one that is logical and can be monitored) for both these tasks; I experienced places (yes~) that I was unfamiliar with and I was out of touch with people other than colleagues associated with the exercises. I mused on whether these were conditions that helped the knowledge accumulation tasks better or I get enthused and invigorated when amidst an ambience that both these experiences espoused.
I have this habit of complaining; I indulge in this when an act takes place as also post the act and funnily enough with people involved in the act and others too. During the initial days few incidences led to my getting irritated for I could not understand why we were getting delayed or not undertaking actions as we had discussed. However since most colleagues in the survey team were not comfortable with either Hindi or English, two languages that I generally voice my thoughts in, I did not have the space to launch my rant. In the process I noticed that remaining silent and letting colleagues perform in accordance with what they thought was logic got work done and in most cases in a better fashion than that would have been done had I ventured to interfere. Silences also led to space for me to notice incidences where colleagues were far more patient with me than I would have been in their place. Patience is something I seem to have lost on the way to becoming a “manager” and need to espouse at an early date. Being a good human being is far more crucial.
I realized that while walking amidst nature has ever been a satisfying experience for me, being alone in course of walks during the survey was a blessing. I was overwhelmed by the wilderness we came across; I recall with fondness the stretch we walked for 3 days coming across neither a human being nor a carelessly thrown piece of plastic. As the intricacies of forest ~ the complexities of nature unfolded in front of my eyes they made me feel humble, insignificant and drew attention to the need to take myself less seriously.
The successful culmination of the exercise (that had us walk for 3 weeks) by the team has been a personal triumph. The exercise gave impetus to the ongoing process of re installing credence in self and brought to end another journey. A journey that had begun some years ago in the urban labyrinths of Maharashtra, took its nascent shape in a dusty south Rajasthan summer and culminated in this tail of a corner of India in Mizoram. At the crux these are all personal journeys……
Monday, March 30, 2009
Survey musings……
Survey ~ Conservation Education
Right from my days with conservation education in Baghmara (South Garo Hills, Meghalaya) I have always believed in what Steve Van Matre said above but was either scared of taking up the tasks or thought too much on doing it perfectly. This of course led to my not undertaking it at Saiha (Mizoram) either. In course of the survey, however, there has been a significant learning on this aspect.
In our survey team some of the colleagues were involved primarily in helping with luggage. They hailed from villages in the landscape and brought with them cheerful banter which pushed aside weariness to the background. At one of our campsites in the initial days we came across Hoolock gibbon (Hauhuk or Vei-tu) and the Phayres leaf monkey (Dawr or Pala). The Hoolock gibbon was seen carrying its baby when one of the initial subgroups reached the site while the Phayres leaf monkey was heard when one of us went to fetch bamboo; for the fire to keep us warm after the evening meal. In both the instances they were tempted to hunt them; and this during a survey for a Wildlife Sanctuary!! I became conscious to the extent to which they practiced hunting and realized the need to communicate repeatedly with them ~ The next evening while we were getting the meal ready they initiated conversations on my ‘strange act’ read stopping them from hunting the 2 rare primates. They asked me whether they could hunt these animals outside the Wildlife Sanctuary (one of them was even confident of luring the poor animals on the wrong side of the boundary). Not being happy with my answer they asked if they could hunt animals that came from Burma or in Burma, stating that they would try a Burmese pig. Few more questions followed and I felt glad at having fostered an interaction with a segment of the society crucial to wildlife conservation. I also realized that the ensuing communications on conservation will have to be basic, simple and addressing their questions – confusions rather than focusing on the sub-species of the primate or the number of troops in the landscape.
The initial communications (during which they also expressed their intrigue at my taking notes mid-way and putting in time each evening with my diary) broke the ice and in the following days they had questions on my using the binoculars, field-guides and the camera. While I could put across the reason for observing birds, checking them up in the field guide and then recording them without the hindrance of the language barrier my colleague had to pitch in when it came to “Why were we taking picture of scats and pug marks?”. After the WHY part we shared HOW we used the binoculars and handed the field-guides to them along with the binoculars. It was invigorating to see them animatedly scan the trees for birds and discuss the same with big eyes and excided hands. While this was a frequent endeavour more in a reaction mode; a regular exercise was showing them (interested ones ~) the pictures taken each day on the camera screen, after the evening meal. This had them “involved” and during the later part of the ‘adventure’, as I like to refer to the survey, besides discussing the names of birds I also saw them (with great interest) arguing over hoof marks being that of a Serow (Saza or Saw-zaw) or a Sambar (Sazuk or Sasu) and pointing out the presence and explaining the operation of traps and snares we came across. They also shared some beliefs pertaining to wildlife with me during one evening; Slow loris (Sahuai or Ru-lei-pa) they said was feared and never killed.
On our way back while coming back on a boat up the Kaladan river we stopped to rest for a while. Here one of the colleagues saw a fisherman who had caught a ‘big bird’ which we later understood was a Coucal. This colleague went up to the fisherman, scolded him for his ‘foolish act’ and then asked the rest of us with great satisfaction to release the bird a little far so that the fisherman could not catch it again.
Communications on Wildlife Conservation by all means make more sense when amidst Wildlife rather than in classroom or living rooms in towns. These could involve actions like birding and one can place emphasis on raising interest levels by nurturing curiosity and encouraging deliberations rather than giving names of mammals or birds. Steve Van Matre says on this “Names are like landmarks, you don’t need very many of them to find your way”. These interactions can be undertaken with school going students and other segments of the society. This is pertinent not only for cities but also for small towns located on the periphery of biodiverse landscapes (or in cases even within them) for the younger generation in these places too is disconnected from nature like their counterparts in cities.
Thanks Roshni for suggestions on the draft.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Survey ~ turtles and tortoises ~
A. Yellow Tortoise (Indotestudo elongata)
B. Southeast Asian Giant Tortoise (Manouria emys)
C. Southeast Asian Softshell Turtle (Amyda cartilaginea)
While the Southeast Asian Giant Tortoise Manouria emys shells we have seen often in the villages and had also helped release one in the Palak Lake, the current survey had us come across the shell of the Yellow Tortoise Indotestudo elongata.
We also saw (and this one alive !!) the Keeled Box Turtle (Coura mouhoti) in course of the survey and i recall it was the day when the terrain was really tough and all of us had really slowed down the pace of our walk. One of the colleagues saw this when he shifted a small stone to enable him to move ahead. It got scared and retreated inside its shell immediately. While CITES places it under Appendix II Indian laws dont accord it legal protection.
Thanking Firoz Ahmed for help with identification.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Survey - Bird List
1) Asian fairy bluebird (Irena puella)
2) Barred cuckoo dove (Macropygia unchall)
3) Black-crested bulbul (Pycnonotus melanicterus)
4) Black drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus)
5) Black eagle (Ictinaetus malayensis)
6) Black-headed bulbul (Pycnonotus atriceps)
7) Black-hooded oriole (Oriolus xanthornus)
8) Black-napped oriole (Oriolus chinensis)
9) Blue-eared kingfisher (Alcedo meninting)
10) Brahminy kite (Haliastur indus)
11) Chestnut-headed bee-eater (Merops leschenaultia)
12) Common green magpie (Cissa chinensis)
13) Common myna (Acridotheres tristis)
14) Eurasian hobby (Falco severus)
15) Forest wagtail (Dendronanthus indicus)
16) Great hornbill (Buceros bicornis)
17) Greater coucal (Centropus sinensis)
18) Greater racket-tailed drongo (Dicrurus paradiseus)
19) Greater yellownape woodpecker (Picus flavinucha)
20) Green imperial pigeon (Ducula aenea)
21) Grey-backed shrike (Lanius tephronotus)
22) Grey-headed lapwing (Vanellus cinereus)
23) Grey-hooded warbler (Seicercus xanthoschistos)
24) Hill myna (Gracula religiosa)
25) Himalayan swiftlet (Collocalia brevirostris)
26) Indian pond heron (Ardeola grayii)
27) Indian roller (Coracias benghalensis)
28) Jerdons baza (Aviceta jerdoni)
29) Khalij pheasant (Lophura leucomelanos)
30) Large-billed crow (Corvus macrorhynchos)
31) Lesser coucal (Centropus bengalensis)
32) Lesser racquet-tailed drongo (Dicrurus remifer)
33) Lesser whistling duck (Dendrocygna javanica)
34) Little grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
35) Long-tailed minivet (Pericrocotus ethologus)
36) Maroon oriole (Oriolus traillii)
37) Mrs Gould’s sunbird (Aethopyga gouldiae)
38) Nepal fulvetta (Alcippe nipalensis)
39) Olive-backed sunbird (Nectarinia jugularis)
40) Orange-breasted green pigeon (Treron bicincta)
41) Oriental pied hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris)
42) Oriental turtle dove (Streptopelia orientalis)
43) Pale-capped pigeon (Columba punicea)
44) Pompadour green pigeon (Treron pompadora)
45) Red collared dove (Streptopelia tranquebarica)
46) Red junglefowl (Gallus gallus)
47) Red-vented bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer)
48) Red-whiskered bulbul (Pycnonotus jocosus)
49) Red-breasted parakeet (Psittacula alexandri)
50) Red-headed trogon (Harpactes erythrocephalus)
51) Redvented bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer)
52) Richard’s pipit (Anthus richardi)
53) Scarlet finch (Haematospiza sipahi)
54) Scarlet minivets (Pericrocotus flammeus)
55) Shikra (Accipiter badius)
56) Short-billed minivet (Pericrocotus brevrostris)
57) Spotted forktail (Enicurus Maculatus)
58) Steppe eagle (Aquila nipalensis)
59) Streaked spiderhunter (Arachnothera magna)
60) White-rumped munia (Lonchura striata)
61) White-rumped shama (Copsychus malabaricus)
62) White-throated kingfisher (Halcyon syrnensis)
63) White wagtail (Motacilla alba)
64) Yellow-footed green pigeon (Treron phoenicoptera)
65) Yellow-billed chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus)
Survey - butterflies
Red helen (Papilio helenus)
Sailer
Bush brown.
Thanking colleagues for walking along in these wonderful woods and Kishen Das for identification of the butterfly pictures.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Survey - life in the villages.
Kaladan river is used for transporting goods to and from Burma, India primarily sends jarda and receives pigs (pork); motor boats and other smaller boats ply even during February - March when water levels are quite low.....
Rack at the biggest shop in Bymari village; shops are pretty small (generally) having the basic necessary items only and in villages near to the border they sell a variety of Burmese goods too (from jaggery (gur) to soap) ......
Tobacco leaves put out in the sun for drying at Lopu village, these are grown in jhum (shifting cultivation) fields and rolled in form of bidis after crushing.
Sincere thanks to all the people in the villages for enabling us to visit them and the kindness showered during our stay. Its been an unforgettable experience.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Birds during the survey
I share some notes I have put together.
14.02.09.....After intriguing me by making noises as if in an "attention seeking behaivour mode" and then successfully evading my binocular gaze I finally got a close look at the Grey-hooded warbler (Seicercus xanthoschistos); saw the orange colour of its beak when it was then making those noises in earnest. While the Black drongos (Dicrurus macrocercus) and Redvented bulbuls (Pycnonotus cafer) were in ‘pretty’ numbers the sightings of the Barred cuckoo dove (Macropygia unchall) and the White rumped shama (Copsychus malabaricus ) were ‘pretty’ interesting.....
16.02.09......Sitting on the river beach I saw the wagtails with their musical sways over water, a crow making its presence felt loudly and a Yellow-billed chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus). The last fellow is more small and delicate compared to jungle crows here and slimmer than a pigeon. Also the tail is broader at the end and the flight graceful. The field guide that I use doesn’t show it occurring in these parts......
a raptor clicked while on a boat on the kolodyne river
17.02.09......Crows have been very prominent today, I don’t get if they are looking for fishes or left-over food from our camp. When I saw 2 of them flying low in circles one behind the other I thought they were courting but then other 4 appeared on the scene and I thought it better to avoid avian speculations. The doves too were interesting; inconspicuous around the stones and shrubs on the beach and quick to rush to the nearby tree when one of us passed nearby.
19.02.09......We had slowed down as the climb was tough and while taking a break we saw and heard the Great hornbill (Buceros bicornis) . The wings made a ‘royal’ sound as they (there were 2) approached a tree. They then flew to another tree nearby and returned. I saw the black stripe clearly on the tail that is otherwise stark white. I recalled hearing the sound in one of Sekhar’s movie as also seeing it at Balpakram NP (South Garo Hills – Meghalaya). It has such a charisma, its like the tiger of birds.......
doves near Supha village
20.02.09.....I wake up today, knowing that we don’t have to move to another camp today and I lazily gaze around and am amazed (as I have been on very mornings) by the sight above; I see 7 Oriental pied hornbills (Anthracoceros albirostris) fly over the camp ! 2 lead the group, 3 formed the centre row while 2 followed. They were snow white when seen above the head, exhibited amazing grace as they flew and did not make the ‘royal’ sound that the great hornbill did the other day. I finally am clear with the difference in the tail markings in these two hornbills, something I had discussed with Anirban months ago; the black band was clearly missing today.
24.02.09......We are near the Border Pillar 15 on the India – Burma border and I get back with the birds today; the Indian roller (Coracias benghalensis) that I had been missing since we began the ‘adventure’ is present to greet us here. It isn’t ‘loud’ today but its stunning blue in the rays of the morning sun looks even more beautiful. While the crows and wagtails are in large numbers I also see the White-rumped munia (Lonchura striata) and the Olive-backed sunbird (Nectarinia jugularis) as I await colleagues to cook our morning meal. As I move after food along the river besides seeing the Oriental pied hornbill and hearing the “walk stopping sound” of the Great hornbill I see the Streaked spiderhunter (Arachnothera magna) and Scarlet minivets (Pericrocotus flammeus) on a single tree. The spider hunter is big and pecking red flowers while the beautiful minivets are enjoying themselves jumping up and down the branches of the same tree......
kingfisher near Lope village.
26.02.09......We see a group of Pompadour green pigeons (Treron pompadora) sitting atop a leafless tree as if awaiting sunset. About 10 of them, sitting high, unbothered by presence of 3 pairs of eyes and 2 binoculars intruding their evening sojourn. They were big, had a stately presence and the amazing colours and shared of yellow, green and brown they possessed made me put them on my list of ‘most beautiful birds’. A little down the road we spotted the Blue-eared kingfisher (Alcedo meninting), in my first sighting of the bird it looked serene, perched on a big stone in the middle of the rivulet.....
Acknowledging support of all colleaugues and the forest department of the Mara Autonomous District Council in the exercise.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
The walls in the houses at villages
This is from the house of the MTP (youth associaton) president at Lomasu village. The top portion of an old calendar. I have seen this earlier and liked this. Tipa or Tuipang is the headquarters of the Block by the same name within Saiha district, about 90 - 100 kms.
This poster featuring wild animals had me wondering ! In the middle of the most amazing forests here we had a poster depicting giraffe and polar bear !
The house where we interacted with people at Lope village had Burmese beauties gracing its walls. The Burmese influence was very visible in the shops too - soaps, cigars and biscuits all came from Burma.
The health department of the state defnitely made its presence felt at the residence of the village council (equivalent to panchayat) president at Lomasu village.
Sonia Gandhi smiled from one of the walls at Lopu village reminding me that I was in India and that the elections were around the corner ...
Sincere thanks to all the colleagues and the forest department of the MADC...Food during the survey
Sincere acknowledgements due to all colleagues and the forest department of the MADC.
Camp sites during the survey
We had been asked by the forest department of the Mara Autonomous District Council (MADC) to "partner" them towards a survey in context of the freshly notified Tokalo Wildlife Sanctuary in Saiha. Saiha is one of the 8 dstricts in Mizoram and Mara Autonomous District Council is one of the 3 District Councils in Mizoram (Chakma and Lai being the other 2). While Saiha is the southern most district in Mizoram the Tokala Wildlife Sanctuary lies at the southern tip of Saiha (therefore also the southern tip of what is referred to as "north eastern India").
This post depicts the camp-sites.
We walked along the rivers (for they were the boundaries of the wildlife sanctuary) and on one occasion came across an abandoned hut; which we were quick to convert into a camp site. This was very well made for the place and need.
Jumping along the stones on rivers was not always successful particularly for novices like me and each evening the shoes were given v.i.p. treatment ~
Sincerely acknowledging the support of the entire team and of course the forest department of the Mara Autonomous District Council for the survey.